I was born in a city renowned for it’s exoticism – San Diego – and lived there till I was 8. The beach was hardly a few minutes walk from where I used to live, and almost everything I owned had the faint fragrance of the beach clinging onto it. Needless to say, the beach is where one would usually find me. By the age of 8, I was a pro at boogie boarding (hey! That was quite an achievement as an 8 year old).
Before I could learn how to properly surf, though, I moved to India. The city I now lived in didn’t exactly have its own beach. The nearest beach was a 6-hour drive away. I’d always wanted to surf, but had to put it off for later.
To be honest, movies like ‘Soul Surfer’ and ‘Blue Crush’ didn’t exactly help. ‘Soul Surfer’ was my favorite movie for a solid year and a half. I was almost nine when I went to Goa with my family for a trip. The first thing I did when I reached the hotel was dash to the concierge and put my name down for the very next surfing class. Though I went regularly for 5 entire days, by the end of the course, I was still back to where I’d started – not a surfer. I’d had high hopes, but hoped for better luck next time.
I was 10 when I visited Pattaya in Thailand. Our hotel was bang on the beach – it had its own private beach and everything. This was the second place I tried my hand at surfing at. Once again, it was all in vain. No matter how hard I tried, I always lost my balance, and would come crashing down. I had accepted the fact that I was certainly not a natural.
At 12, I visited the Andaman and Nicobar Islands with my grandparents. Unfortunately, to them, surfing might as well mean dying. They simply refused to let e go surfing and said that my life was way to precious to waste on a silly water sport. This is why I often found myself doing nothing but building sand castles with the toddlers at the beach. Though I went boogie boarding from time to time, all I really wanted to do was try my hand once again at surfing.
My life practically changed when I went to Australia when I was 13 years old. I spent an entire month there. Though we traveled to famous cities like Melbourne, Sydney and Cairns, we spent most of our time in a place called ‘Surfer’s Paradise’. As the name suggests, the place is renowned for surfing all over the world. Maybe the place really was magical or something, because the second I paddled into the ocean, I knew something was different.
No, I didn’t catch my first wave on the first day, but I knew I was getting there. On the last day of the surfing course, I felt pretty confident. Power surged through my arms as I let go of the fear of plummeting head first and firmly placed my feet on the board. I slowly stood up and was astonished to realize that I hadn’t toppled!
The feeling only lasted a few seconds though, because the next thing I knew, I was struggling for air and coughing up salty beach-water as a wave crashed over my head. I know that to the world, it wasn’t exactly the best ride, but to me, it honestly was. I’d finally gotten the hang of surfing! I practiced the entire day, riding each wave I could catch and by the end of the day, I’d improved tremendously. Yes, I still fell plenty of times, but I also had some victory waves on which I managed to ride without faltering even once.
I haven’t visited a proper beach after Australia, but plan on going to one soon. Hopefully I’ll still be able to catch a few waves without completely embarrassing myself. Now there’s only one thing that comes to my mind when I think about the beach – the urge to surf.
– Just Another Magical Soul
Sorry I haven’t posted since like, forever and a day. I just got so caught up with my school work and everything… Anyway, this is a post I wrote around a month ago, so it doesn’t include my recent Bali trip. I just didn’t want to discard this post all together because of all the work I put into it, so I’m posting it anyway. I’ll be putting up a post on my trip to Bali soon though, so look out for it!
Do you have any surfing experience? Do you have any tips you might wanna share with me? Lemme know in the comment section down below. I’d love to hear your thoughts!
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